caimento impecável
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Caimento perfeito: o que faz uma peça parecer impecável?

Posted on by Maíra Gea

Para uma peça ser vista como algo impecável ela não precisa ser cara ou produzida com tecidos nobres. Na verdade, existem dois elementos que são diretamente responsáveis por agregar à roupa aquele visual perfeito (ou quase perfeito) que muitas procuram: a modelagem e o tecido. É claro que existem mais detalhes que podem entrar agregando valor a uma peça, mas esses daí são os principais.

Tem interesse em ficar com o olhar afiado para peças com caimento perfeito, mas não sabe como conseguir tal proeza? Então fica aqui comigo que o post de hoje é para você.

MODELAGEM

A modelagem consegue salvar qualquer peça de roupa, tamanho é o seu poder. Quando bem planejada e executada, ela faz a roupa vestir o corpo com perfeição deixando a peça com aquele jeitinho de feita sob medida.

modelagem problemática (costuras grosseiras, sem caimento) vs. modelagem perfeita (caimento impecável, costuras delicadas).

Conseguir analisar a modelagem de uma peça e identificar possíveis falhas de construção é questão de hábito. Só com o tempo e com persistência você conseguirá treinar o seu olhar. No entanto, existem algumas dicas que eu posso te dar que são sinais de modelagem problemática e te ajudarão a afiar a sua percepcão. Olha só:

  • Costura franzida ou torta (é um problema de costura na verdade, mas acaba afetando o visual da roupa);
  • A roupa não assenta no seu corpo de forma alguma. Ela fica torta, com as costuras desalinhadas, não encaixa direito, fica com caimento fluido em partes que deveriam ter estrutura e armada em partes que deveriam ter caimento fluido. Ou seja, um desastre.
  • Papos (volumes em partes que não deveriam ter volumes, como no gavião das calças e shorts, por exemplo);
  • Pences pontudas que forma uma espécie de bico na costura.

TECIDO

Nem sempre o tecido estará adequado à modelagem da roupa. Um grande exemplo disso é o famigerado blazer de neoprene (é a melhor peça que encontrei para ilustrar como pode ser desastroso negligenciar a etapa de escolha dos tecidos). Peça de alfaiataria é feita para ter estrutura, delinear suavemente o corpo, ser imponente e ter um quê de formalidade, certo? Então quando você pega um tecido de neoprene, que é usado amplamente no nicho de moda praia, e tenta inserir no contexto da alfaiataria é desastre na certa. Nem a Chanel conseguiria fazer uma mistura dessas funcionar e parecer impecável.

blazer de neoprene vs. blazer de alfaiataria | consegue perceber a diferença?

E dessas misturas duvidosas as araras estão cheias, viu?

Então saiba fazer essa análise de proposta vs. tecido. Quer algo imponente? Procure por tecidos estruturados, um pouco mais grossos, com caimento bem reto e que não marque. Quer fluidez, acessibilidade e delicadeza? Aposte nos tecidos mais molinhos, gostosos ao toque e suaves.

Peças que fazem essa adequação entre proposta e tecido serão, sem sombra de dúvidas, percebidas como impecáveis.

Parece difícil, mas com o tempo você pega o jeito e ficará fera em identificar as peças com caimento perfeito? Não desista e vá fazendo suas análises até o processo ficar automático 🙂

Gostou e quer ler mais conteúdos assim? Então clique aqui e não deixe de nos seguir lá no Insta da Fix para mais novidades!

Maíra Gea

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