09
jun
Uncategorized

Das trincheiras para a moda.

Posted on by Danieli Massi

Tão familiar ao nosso dia a dia, o trench coat é um casaco atemporal e presente em todos os desfiles pelo mundo. É versátil e clássico. Sua praticidade o transformou em uma peça chave do guarda-roupa da civilização ocidental. Porém sua origem difere do uso atual, e é essa a história de hoje.

Pinterest

Uma peça funcional

Podemos falar que o antepassado do trench coat é um casaco criado por Charles Macintosh e Thomas Hancock (fundador da indústria de borracha na Inglaterra) para uso ao ar livre, principalmente em caças, serviço militar e atividades de equitação. Ele era composto por um tecido de algodão coberto por uma camada de borracha, permitindo que o usuário ficasse seco no chuvoso clima inglês. No uso, porém era pesado e pouco maleável.

A técnica evoluiu e fez história. As empresas Burberry e Aquascutum surgiram da necessidade de desenvolver novas capas de chuva, criando também novos tecidos no fim do século XIX. O gabardine, por exemplo, trouxe uma nova tecnologia onde o fio era coberto com uma camada impermeabilizante antes mesmo da produção do tecido. A mudança de um novo século veio acompanhada de uma tragédia de proporções catastróficas. E este fato impactou diretamente na criação de um clássico.

Anúncio da marca Burberry. Inicio do século XIX.

Uma guerra como nenhuma outra… 

A Primeira Guerra Mundial é lembrada por ser uma “guerra de trincheiras”. Cada lado cavava túneis abertos na terra onde ficavam por semanas, meses e até anos “entrincheirados” batalhando com o objetivo de avançar sobre o território inimigo. Como você deve imaginar, isso não era algo muito dinâmico nem higiênico. O clima úmido e a falta de saneamento básico causaram uma série de problemas de saúde e epidemias entre os soldados.

Winston Churchill usando seu Trench Coat

Buscando uma solução para manter todos o mais secos possíveis, as marcas Burberry e Aquascutum modificaram suas capas para o uso militar. Foram inseridas dragonas (para carregar equipamentos militares), argolas em D (para transporte de granadas), aba sobreposta (para proteção adicional em ação) e protetor contra a chuva (que permitia que a  água escorresse). Criou-se assim o trench coat (o nome da peça é prático e direto: trench, trincheira ou vala e coach, casaco em inglês), unindo o necessário com o prático. Apesar da invenção ser muito bem vinda, ambas as marcas eram (e continuam sendo) caras para o uso do soldado comum, sendo associadas ás altas patentes do exército. Varejistas populares vendiam produtos similares para soldados e pessoas comuns, tornando a peça um símbolo patriótico.

Ganhando as ruas

Ao fim da guerra a peça acabou caindo no gosto popular, já que suas linhas retas trazem sobriedade ao look e o cinto permitia que mulheres ajustassem a cintura, trazendo feminilidade a uma peça sem gênero. Ao longo das décadas seguintes o cinema também foi um grande responsável pela difusão do casaco, concretizando seu status de clássico por meio de produções como “Bonequinha de Luxo” e “Casablanca”.

Casablanca – 1942
Bonequinha de luxo – 1961

Hoje o trench coat possui uma grande variedade de funções, formas, comprimentos e detalhes. Perdeu várias de suas características iniciais, mas continua sendo revisitado temporada após temporada por estilistas do mundo todo.

Burberry Inverno 2019

E você, tem alguma peça que gostaria de saber a origem, história ou ficar com ela na trincheira? Divida seus desejos e dúvidas com a gente aqui nos comentários.

Danieli Massi

Olá, eu sou a Danieli Massi. Me formei em Design de Moda e Marketing Estratégico. Minhas paixões me levaram a me especializar em história da moda, mercado de consumo e sociedade. Adoro ler, assistir documentários e descobrir novidades. Aqui na Fixbitt eu vou falar com vocês sobre um pouquinho de tudo isso! Mal posso esperar para aprendermos coisas novas juntos!

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